India’s smallest state is home to a heady drink big on flavour
Words by Karl Fernandes
Goa is the holy grail for a wide array of craft and artisanal spirits in India, with Feni being an indigenous category that has been evolving for more than 500 years. In Goa, drinking is more than just a social activity: it is deeply rooted in ancient traditions and religion. Even the sacred Coconut and Cashew Trees, from which many Goan Feni variants are harvested, are family heirlooms traditionally passed down from generation to generation as a source of financial stability and to ensure the continuance and sustainability of these revered plants for the future.
It’s time to expand your must-try list from just sipping Urrack & Lemonade and tasting Cashew Feni at different Goan festivals to exploring a few endemic blends across the state!
From toddy in South Goa to Dukshiri in Canacona, here are some of my favourite Feni blends and drinks to seek out on your next trip—plus where to find them, and how to drink them.
Urrack
Urrack is a seasonal drink made with the first distillation of cashew juice (Nero). It is available only during the cashew harvest season from March to mid-May. During this time, the cashews are ripe with sweet fruit juices and have low sap content.
A common question is why Urrack not available year-round?
As a low wine at about 20% to 25% ABV, it is difficult to retain the volatile esters responsible for Urrack’s funky fruity aromas. Generally, it has a shelf life of two weeks, after which it goes flat and is known as Pochaac.
Some of my favourite Urrack combinations are:
• Urrack + Citrus Soda
• Urrack + Lemon Soda
• Urrack + Grapefruit Soda
• Urrack + Orange Soda
• Urrack & Tropical Flavors
• Urrack + Guava + Chili
• Urrack + Mango + Jalapenos
• Urrack + Pineapple Juice + Pepper Powder
Feni
Feni is a double-distilled heritage spirit indigenous to Goa, made either from fermenting and double-distilling cashew juice or double-distilling fermented coconut sap (toddy).
One of the few spirits distilled directly to drinking strength, Feni retains many characteristics of its raw materials, giving it prominent flavour notes that, when combined with the right ingredients, create exceptional cocktails. This is what excites bartenders like myself.
Cashew Feni flavour notes
• Top Note: Summer Indian tropical fruits – pineapple, mangoes, guava, jamun, kokum, and jackfruit
• Mid Note: Citrusy – lemons, limes, grapefruit, orange, citron, clementine, lime leaves, lemongrass
• Back Note: Hot Spice – chilies, dry chilies, pepper, bell peppers
Coconut Feni aka Madache Soro (Alcohol of the Coconut Tree)
With a written history of more than 500 years, Coconut Feni is the original Feni of Goa.
Mentioned in a book written in 1586 by John Huighen van Linschoten, a passionate Dutch traveler who traversed the spice route with the Portuguese, it was discovered that Goans were distilling Vraca, which sounded more like Araaqa. This debunks the myth that we learned to make Feni from the Portuguese; in fact, we had mastered it through trade, years before they arrived.
Coconut Feni isn’t easily available, and in its purest form, it is more expensive than any other distilled spirit of Goa. Finding a traditional toddy tapper who distils is harder than finding a barrel to age or juniper to flavor. Bartenders like me have the honor of enjoying this spirit responsibly while it’s around, while people like Hansel Vaz strive to preserve it for future generations.
Here are some of its tasting notes:
• Top Note: Fermented – like sourdough or fermented rice batter
• Pairing: Milk, cream, cheese, dairy, roasted grains, dry fish, meats, choris
• Middle Note: Sour – more vinegary or toddy notes
• Pairing: Pickles, raw mangoes, olives, anything brined, salt, pickled chilies
• Back Note: Vegetal, grassy, herby
• Pairing: Herbs (especially turmeric leaves, pandan leaves and ginger leaves, as well as sweet spices like cinnamon, star anise, cloves, cardamon and nutmeg
Hidden Gems: Discovering Unique Feni Variants
Goa is home to over 25 different Feni variants, created nearly 200 years ago and often hidden away. These single botanical distilled Fenis predate the arrival of gin in India. If this knowledge intrigues you, feel free to reach out to me on Instagram at @the_feni_guy.Karl. Until then, Saude!
Feni Seekers in South Goa can visit…
Vaz Enterprises: They don’t sell Feni but will happily direct you to their secret stash.
Feli Goa: Meet Nitin Naik for the best recommendations.
Beno Goa: This year, Gaurav Bharadwaj has curated some amazing Urrack batches and crafted cool Feni cocktails.
If you’re in Panjim, visit…
Joseph’s Bar: Known for stocking large batches of Urrack and their signature Tambde Rosa cocktail. Don’t miss their trending Feni Kokum drinks.
Countertop Lab (Merces): A new space known for its amazing cocktail skills. During the season, they mix up killer cocktails.
Club National: A members-only space that opened in the 1960s, offering a step back in time with classic cocktails.
Feni fiends in North Goa can visit…
Hideaway: Famous for insane Urrack pop-ups on Mondays. Follow their Instagram page for updates and catch Aditya Tribhuvan for nerdy drink knowledge.
Pablos: Known for the best Feni supply in the area. Meet Tejas Pore for classic cocktails and more.
Embark on a journey to explore these exquisite Goan spirits, and immerse yourself in the rich heritage and flavors they offer. Cheers!
Karl runs a beverage consulting firm called Sip Savvy. He is a Bartender who mastered the art of making his bar menu sustainable and ethically sourced. He is extremely passionate about using seasonal ingredients and integrating the local community into his cocktail-making processes.
